Caponata

8 small eggplants (4 to 5 inches long), cut into 1-inch chunks

Coarse salt

1½ cups water

1¼ cups thinly sliced celery

About 1½ cups peanut oil

½ cup extra-virgin olive oil

4 medium onions, thinly sliced (3½ cups)

1 cup tomato paste

2/3 cup red wine vinegar

1 cup chopped pitted Sicilian olives in brine

½ cup capers in brine, drained

½ cup sugar

2 teaspoons unsweetened cocoa powder

Fine sea salt and coarsely ground black pepper to taste

Place the eggplant in a colander, sprinkle with coarse salt, and let sweat in the sink or on a plate for 1 hour. Rinse and dry well.

In a small saucepan, bring the water to a boil. Add the celery and cook for 3 to 4 minutes. Drain the celery, reserving the water, and set aside.

In a large skillet, heat ¾ cup peanut oil. Add half the eggplant and fry, stirring occasionally, until softened and lightly browned, 12 to 15 minutes. Remove to brown paper to drain. Repeat with the remaining eggplant, adding more peanut oil as necessary. Drain off the oil

In the same frying pan, heat the olive oil over medium-high heat. All the onions and sauté until soft, about 10 minutes. Lower the heat to medium, add the tomato paste, the reserved celery water, the vinegar, olives, capers, sugar, and cocoa and mix well. Let simmer for about 5 minutes. Add the eggplant and celery, stir well, let simmer for about 10 minutes. Add the salt and pepper.

Spoon the caponata into clean jars, cap, and refrigerate or freeze. (If freezing, be sure to allow room for expansion in the jars.) Serve at room temperature.